We realized only during our city
tour, that the tour operators are not the best option to help visiting
Jaisalmer! The RTDC hotel administration works in collaboration with private
tour operators who arrange package tour as per their convenience – may not be
convenient for the tourist, especially if one likes to take own time to visit preferred
places.
Golden fort captured on mobile
Our funniest experience
was with Golden fort, ancient home of the Bhatti Rajput dynasty from 12th
century AD, later the famous Sonar Kella of Satyajit Ray. By the time we
reached at the foothills, the tour operator was in a hurry to take us back to
hotel. Moreover, the ambiance of the fort gate is very modern – I had a doubt
how I could trace the 24000 women who were believed to have performed Jauhar
(practice of self sacrifice, which saved ancient Hindu women from the
humiliation in the hands of invaders) in 1290s as defeat became obvious in the
hands of the invader Allauddin Khilji. This fort had seen at least three mass
jauhars like this – proving the Rajput’s passion for dignity. Jaisalmer was indeed
the last Rajput state which came under British rule, by 1818 as British East
India Company started swallowing pieces of their Indian pies aggressively. But
the entrance, overcrowded with the kiosks, banners (some in Bengali) and
over-enthusiast self–proclaimed guides is not welcoming at all. We walked a
little, but no - gave up within 10 minutes – we lost the mood to explore in the
meantime. Locals told there are luxury hotels inside fort. One may book
accommodation in one of those hotels to have a different experience.
Mandir Palace
Palace courtyard
Utensils from Royal kitchen
Lock and keys of Royal Home!
And old handmade tiles
King's residence
View inside bedroom
The Throne
There are several
buildings famous for artwork and handicrafts collection in Jaisalmer, e.g. Badal
palace, alternatively called Mandir palace, the 2nd home of Bhatti Kings after
they left the fort. This home was built around two hundred years back with the
simplicity suited to a desert Rajput dynasty. It’s large but cozy, traditional,
exquisitely curved, but not gaudy – part of which is again converted into
luxury hotel (not too costly one). The Ladies Zone and the Kings area with a
display of items for daily use and artifacts open for visitors show the
distinct character of its owners. Probably this distinct identity was the
reason behind many battles between Bhattis of Jaisalmer and Rathors of Jodhpur
and Bikaner.
Tajia tower
Ancient myth says that the establishment of this dynasty as a dominant
force is resulted from the friendship between Brahmins – the scholarly class
and Rajput – the warriors. Later, as Jaisalmer was developed as a large trading
point between India and Pakistan, the Islamic art form was also adopted to
create marvels of Jaisalmer architecture. Tajia tower in Badal palace is a
magnificent example.
One of the horses in the
king’s stable seemed very friendly. Not only he walked to us but also started
trying to communicate - probably being attracted by my brother’s heavy jacket
and my leather bags. Unfortunate that all horses have caretakers to scold them
if they are interested in unknown people!
Gadisar lake is another
architectural marvel worth visiting. The man-made lake was excavated as a water
reservoir for the city of Jaisalmer by the king Maharwal Gadsi Singh around
1400 AD. Migratory birds are one attraction of this lake in this season. Obviously
they prefer the less crowded part of the lakeside – opposite side of Tilon ki
Pol. We decided not to disturb them here and kept ourselves busy with the gate.
The gate was constructed by a courtesan Tilon. Of course making of such a large
sandstone structure by a courtesan did hart the social pride as well as the
king’s then. So a Satyanarayan (another form of Krishna) temple was also built
along and the gate was dedicated to that God – doing away with all debates.
View of the lake taken using mobile
Tilon ki Pol
A view of ghat and temple
Patwon ki Haveli is a
complex of five houses made by an 18th century business tycoon, who even lend
money to the royals, for his five sons. Details: http://patwahaveli.com/history.asp
Each house can be considered separate art galleries, full of artifacts showing
the lifestyle of the old business community here.
We have heard of Nathmal
ki Haveli too as a mansion worth visiting; but the operator-controlled time of
city visit was over for that day as well and then the tour operator wanted to
take us to the trip towards Indo-Pakistan border – we were not interested and decided to take
rest instead.
People attracted to
archaeology and ancient art may find Jaisalmer museums interesting too. A List
of Rajasthan museums is available here: http://museumsrajasthan.gov.in/museums.htm
Things went fine till
the reservation chart of the train Jaisalmer-Jaipur was prepared. My brother arranged
everything beforehand taking extra care while he was carrying 2 old ladies
along. We were on waiting list 1 2 3 for this train, confident that we would
get the tickets confirmed on time. Such a wrong idea! After chart preparation,
only 1 was confirmed; the name was my brother's! So we needed to cancel all, but
how to reach Jaipur next day then? As hotel staffs referred a bus operator, my
bro went there to book a ticket but came back with a visibly shocked face – knowing
that a Jaipur bound bus ticket costs as low as Rs 450 for an overnight journey.
We took an auto rickshaw towards bus station. As it happens in India, we started chatting with the rickshaw driver. Knowing our travel plan, he commented
“who referred you the ‘Bangar’ (broken) bus?” Then we came to know that there
were options for other kinds of buses too – Volvo and all. But no – we were not
in the mood of changing tickets – anticipating this bus could be our option of catching
another glimpse of rural Rajasthan. We were right! Ours was a bus used by local
commuters, without air-conditioning, cold air coming through its cracked
body. Wonderful was to find that even that bus was being managed by an expert driver
and a nice conductor, probably little concerned about the safety of this group
of three city-bred differently dressed visitors. We were given best possible seats
and the conductor kept on guarding us. It stopped at a roadside dhaba at
midnight for dinner. My brother went to discover the taste of rural Rajasthan
and came back with a pleased face. Dhaba food, according to him is in general healthy
and tasty in India. Their food is made of fresh ingredients and served hot. Me
and mom were shown an open space behind the Dhaba as we were looking for an
washroom! IMAZINE! Hmmm – we have to take things easy when we are travelling
rural Indian style!
The bus ride was rewarding as imagined. Pokran in Sonar Kella, the Satyajit Ray detective story of 1970's was a
deserted place. We discovered that to be a grown up township now. I found, that
ladies in rural Rajasthan wear skirts more beautiful than those we get at
stores and, that people are very tall and thin in this part of Rajasthan. We
also got a chance of trying a mix of hot toasted chickpea, peanut and some unknown
nuts – some local mouth watering delicacy.
As we got down from bus
at 4 AM, my legs were almost frozen; probably bro’s too; both smart siblings
boarded a country bus in Rajasthan winter without wearing warm leggings!
Fortunately our Jaipur
cab driver picked us up without much delay. A nice warm room is something
you need after such an adventure. But morning truly showed the day – my
decision of city visit that day went terribly wrong. We should have visited
city palace, jantar mantar etc, before visiting the forts. These are favored
destinations for foreign tourists which give an idea of Indian royal grandeur
during colonialist period. After forts, palaces seem too ordinary. There is no
Nahar Singh as well.
Inside Jaipur palace
I think Mysore palace
could be a better attraction for people who love to see lot of gold and silver –
even the Hookah collection of the Ramnagar king (Banaras) could stand as good
competitor against Jaipur city palace hookahs. Indian Museum or Victoria
Memorial or Marble palace in Kolkata has excellent collection of artifacts. To
me, Rajasthan is alive for its stories integrated with its monuments and
palaces. But there are more of history than stories in last 200 year’s India…
 |
| The old Jaipur (mobile) |
Old Jaipur city is
interesting for its old pink houses made in rows. The main road is wide but
encroached from all sides keeping only a narrow passage open for all kinds of
vehicles! It made me remember the dingy Burrabazar area in Kolkata – the wealthiest
business neighborhood in the city. Interestingly, old Burrabazar
residents are mostly from Rajasthan. Well, many of Rajasthan trading community
started settling in eastern part of the country long before the British
arrived.
Mobile cam is only option from inside car
Jaipur nowadays is clearly
divided into old city and new – we partly had a glimpse of the old during the
fort visits. The old Jaipur city was developed during British era – in last
200-250 years as the royals started living in newly built palaces leaving their
old forts. But as it happens with all old cities – one can feel the place only
by walking miles on its roads…
The divider between the old city and new (mobile)
Which cannot be maintained everywhere (mobile)
Regret for not having much
time to explore more of the city while in the meantime, my old faithful headache
announced its presence. We had to rush to hotel.
Not only buildings and
stories, this part of Rajasthan amazed me with lot more. I found the Food and sweets
and snacks simply delicious! As eastern side of India invented cottage cheese
sweets, Rajasthan offers own creations using condensed milk, lentil flour,
wheat flour, rice flour and ghee. Foodies should never miss different varieties of Laddus, Ghewar and Pheni
and Kachouris as well as their thalis. Secondly, these cities of Rajasthan are
good shopping destination as well, especially for those having a taste for
handloom and handicrafts, silver and copper and stoneware. But if one does not
have local contacts, it’s better to trust Govt. emporiums than any random
store. I regretted not having a job when I realized I would never get gemstones
and semi precious stones at that price anywhere else. Shame to my poverty!
Next morning, when the
city of Jaipur was getting smaller and smaller below, I remembered some families
from Delhi, Kanpur and Allahabad I met in the Jaisalmer hotel - how we spent a
nice evening chatting in the lounge. The government officials from other states
were amazed at the grand success of Rajasthan Govt. in maintaining the city
clean and supplying enough of water. The civil engineer from Delhi, who was
listening silently in the beginning, suddenly commented: “But there is
no rain since last three years. True, water is made available for tourists who
might find desert life romantic. But fact is, one can work full time only 6 months
a year here whereas moving out of home is not possible in summer. Moreover, water
is costly when there is no rain. So it’s not all rosy pictures for the locals.
I think, all the places are good when you see them as a tourist – but to stay,
only that place is good which gives you a job.” – making the rest of us silent!
I don’t know whether he
was right or wrong – but I knew there were lot more of Rajasthan remained hidden
from us – tourists who have to visit places within a span of few days.
Photo courtesy: Tathagata Mukherjee
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