We started for Jaisalmer
by train at midnight; reached again facing a delay of two hours due to fog. At
7 am in the morning, we found a cold dark night outside the station. Anyway, we
escaped any kind of trouble as the cab sent from hotel was waiting.
Cottage in Jaisalmer hotel |
Tourist lodges\hotels
under Government tourism departments in India have an ambiance we call
middle-class environment. In the lobby, you may find tourists who work with
different departments under different state- or central governments, chatting
with each other. Rooms look like Govt. quarters, food is healthy\less spicy.
You may also find a cottage industries showroom in the premises. These do not
include gym, swimming pool, sauna or parlor, but provide homely comfort for
Govt. employees families. I do not know how a similar kind of environment is
maintained in all Govt. lodges everywhere in the country – as I have seen – be
in West Bengal or Orissa, Karnataka or Tamilnadu, Maharastra or Rajasthan.
Towards desert
First desert visit has to be exiting, so was
ours. Jaisalmer city is in the desert, but one needs to drive almost half an
hour to find a deserted desert. Well, roads are good even in those areas. There
was more surprise for me on the way – windmills! I haven’t seen those from so
close distance before.
Ruins of Kuldhara |
Kuldhara is a famous haunted village in the
desert being maintained by Archaeological Survey of India. There is a debate
whether a nasty Rajput local leader really threatened a group of Paliwal
Brahmins so harsh that they preferred leaving their Kuldhara home and losing in
the desert rather than gifting one of the Brahmin daughters to the Rajput. But
stories do tell about people of a place and time – this place must be a witness
of some incident. Some friends told Paliwals were into gold trading, so it is
very possible that a local ruler of some unknown era wanted to acquire their gold,
not really their daughters and he made Paliwals leave the place to fulfill his
objective. Who knows the truth?
One old home renovated in Kuldhara
There was a temple once
Desert through mobile cam
Camel ride was fun for
me and my brother. The camel was growling as we stepped towards it. Obviously
this made me little scared (remember Lalmohan Ganguly?). What a wonder, it stopped
crying as me and bro sat on it. What a personality trait - it seemed happy not
only to carry heavy stuffs clinging on its back but also wanted to run with
those! Its owner told, camel is energetic animal, especially when young. They
don’t want to sit idle and express dissatisfaction till there is no chance to
move. Does every camel have same character or this is also a generalization?
The big fat heroin and brother
Keeping balance may seem little troublesome in the beginning but you will enjoy the ride. I would be happier only if “tourists” did not take the role of garbage producing community here – how come people scatter all kinds of plastic bags, wrappers and bottles around themselves? Also beware of the proposal of camel-owners to show the Indo-Pakistan border, which is, in fact 130 km away from this part of Jaisalmer. Well – no harm in taking a longer camel ride if you enjoy.
In the desert
Dusk in the desert
The fire |
Musical programs
presented by folk artists arranged in the evening are another attraction in the
deserts. People may also live in the tents here or go back to hotel after attending
the program. You are lucky if you are attending a program of one of your
favorite singers. There is a difference between listening to a Manganiyar
artist in a city auditorium and out in the open. Seats for audience are
arranged like a gallery in the open –
the program starts after sunset in the evening - in January the
temperature goes low as 4/5 oC – they light a fire in the middle. Probably this
is called heavenly experience!
Practicing before performance |
Jalal Khan and troup |
Shanta Devi and troup |
Our little fotomodel
To be continued:
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