A short trip to Rajasthan - 2

We planned to visit forts in and around Jaipur – our cab-driver was wondering why we were forcing him to take us to those ‘khandahars’(ruins) instead of visiting Chowki Dhani and all popular tourist destinations; but had to give up as he already agreed to accompany this stubborn trio.

All three forts located in Jaipur - Nahargarh, Jaigarh and Amer, the old accommodations of kings of this region – are curved on hilltops to be fitted as strategic locations; worth visiting for their architectural plan. Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) is responsible for preserving the Indian history here. Also Indian army people are visible in the relatively deserted hilltops of Nahargarh and Jaigarh. Integral parts of these forts are age old legends spread verbally through hundreds of years. As it happens with most of our historical locations, very little are documented, but people’s belief makes all the stories alive in this land of many warrior clans –traditionally called Rajput.

On the way to Nahargarh

Take Nahargarh's as an example. Popular belief says that the fort’s name was Sudarshangarh once upon a time. Sawai Rajput clan attacked the fort when it was under the rule of Nahar Singh Bhomia, a Rathod Rajput. Nahar Singh and family, lost in the battle, believed to have committed suicide, but the spirit of the king kept on haunting the place. He was even foiling the redesigned reconstruction of the fort. Finally, Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, who was owner of the fort by 1730s, made a temple in the premises and named it after Nahar Singh, to pacify the spirit and succeeded.

Renovated several times between 19th and 20 century, the fort had seen the most recent major reconstruction work planned by the Jaipur city architect Vidyadhar Bhattacharya, during Sawai Madho Singh’s regime between 1883-1892. 

Jaipur city through the archer's whole on the fort wall

Inside Nahargarh

An awesome view of Jaipur city is found from Nahargarh. The fort has a large entrance – as usual – and cordoned by high walls from all sides. Jaipur city lies far below if you look through the holes from the wall right hand side – once made for archers-protectors of the fort. The old water reservoir in the middle of the fort is interesting, also the palace and the small temple in the left hand side. The king’s part is transformed into restaurant but the 9 identical mahals (dwellings) of which 7 three-room apartments were for the queens. The entire structure is still attractive with all their stone filigree work, minakari (colored stone painting), frescos, hallways, corridors and rectangular courtyards. I am not sure when the European style lavatories and kitchen fireplaces were added – Europeans and even the then British resident’s family were sent here by the then king for their protection during Sepoy mutiny in 1857. 

Water reservoir

The royal home

Courtyard

Queen's bedroom

Spirit of Nahar Singh?

Corridor

Towards king's chamber

Interesting abode for Shiva at the entrance of the fort 

 

The temple door

At the end, I selected a 4 bhk house inside this fort, outside the palace, probably allotted to some high official under the kings, for my accommodation – in my next birth – if history repeats! Was there any female officer in the king’s office? – No way!

Home I wanted to live in!

Nahargarh and Jaigarh are 3 km away from each other but cordoned by the same high wall.

Jaigarh does not have frescoes and intricate artwork like the other fort while it was built to protect the city, not as residential structure – but the red stone construction is amazing. Apart from Aram-Mandir (resting place), armory, garden and museum, it has a watchtower as high as 15-storied house with staircase and no lift! – obviously closed for general tourists. The locally made huge cannon named Jaivana and a large underground water tank create awe of course! Jaivana, the largest cannon of the world was manufactured by local foundries in 1720 during the ruler Sawai Jai Singh's regime. This 50-ton cannon was never used in an war but the test fire was believed to have done using 100 kgs of gunpowder and resulted creation of a lake in the village Chasku 35 kilometers away. It is easily understandable why Jaipur iron foundries were the source of Mogul power till Aurangzeb’s regime.

Back of the cannon

 Watchtower

The 3 adjacent water tanks were constructed to store water for the fort’s usage. According to local belief, looting was secondary profession (fighting wars being the primary) of kings once and Sawai Man Singh made himself famous as a looter in a large landscape stretched till Kabul. They say that the looted wealth used to be converted into gold coins and hidden inside the tanks – all extracted by Govt after Indian independence. No Govt record carries any evidence of these stories, apart from one unsuccessful treasure hunt in the area during Indira Gandhi’s regime. Even if there were hidden treasure, those might have been used by Sawai Jai Singh to build the grand city of Jaipur.

Amer or Amber fort, built in second half of 16th century by Raja Man Singh, is as majestic as the Mughal emperors, implanting both awe and attraction in a tourists mind. You enter through a huge gate – larger than the previous forts, and then find yourself in large ground surrounded by a high stone-wall, different sections of the palace, a huge temple, horse stables and clerk’s offices. They say that the 5000 infantry used to parade in this large courtyard. Photography is prohibited only in the silver coated Sita Devi (mother goddess) temple that lies in one corner of this courtyard. God is not comfortable with camera! 

Main entrance of Amber

First courtyard

Enough space for a large infantry parade

Beside the temple, a large intricately designed stairway leads to the palace’s second courtyard, again divided from the large one by a high stone wall. The king used to meet common people in a construction called Diwan-i-Aam (Public hall). Built on double row of columns, this structure is open in all four sides.

 Second courtyard with Diwan-i-Aam on the left

Ganesha pole is the gate to the third courtyard, which was private area of the royals.

Royals met their officers in this place – a construction called Diwan-i-khas, alternatively called Sheesh Mahal, covered with intricate glass-work along with a private garden is the main attraction here. Suddenly at this moment, the grandeur started making me tired. Expression of luxury and splendor in the art and architecture was same probably everywhere during middle-age baroque. I find it little too much – not the fault of the kings of course – they followed the fashion of their time! 

Ganesha pole

Diwan-i-khaas

It’s called Sheesh Mahal

Exquisite stone filigree

But how the garden did look like that time?

Moving forward from this part of construction, if you are interested to march into the inner courtyard of the Indian Royals, made for their women - fourth one here, you have to be alert that you follow another group of tourists. Many narrow and identical corridors, dark staircases and different elevations make it difficult to come out of the ladies zone without help. But you will miss a lot if you don’t enter. Its ladies zone after all!

One corridor leading towards the ladies zone

You are inside Ladies zone - Genana court visible in the middle

And you have to cross these high walls if you want to run away

While sentries are watching from these towers

I remember we found a Turkish bath somewhere before entering this area, but cannot remember how we entered there. During Maan Singh’s era, they set up as many as 27 washrooms in the palace but probably without ventilation – the bad odor stopped us from exploring further… 

A view of the kitchen

Women of high rank were allotted separate apartments for sure, but none had a door. I am not an expert, so do not know, when we first introduced the concept of door in Indian architecture. But I have seen wooden doors with intricate artwork in older Hindu temples. Even the humble Nahargarh fort owners had better respect for privacy it seems. Interestingly, the Mogul Lieutenant’s ladies had own courtyard, used to be allotted property in the form of territory, used to manage those themselves and even used to carry out judicial practices, if their socio-political strata permitted it. Anyway, the structure shows clearly that no women could escape this area – the topmost floors surrounding this area were allotted to palace guards and servants. We spotted a kitchen also in the backyard decorated with some yokes and vessels as large as bathtubs – do not know whether this was used for the kings and queens or the servants of the palace.
But the Jenana Deori of this palace created such a terrorizing ambiance that all of us took a deep breath of relief together, as  soon as we came out of the area (in fact the high walls made me remember the traumatizing experience of working with a software project for a few months once - about fifty to sixty people were supposed to work 10 hours a day sitting in a closed hall without window but with 12 CCTV cameras placed around them). Good that the time has changed - no king's man tried to stop us as we came out of  the fort.  

There is a Rajasthan Textile development corp establishment near Amber fort - watching carpet making process and block printing is another experience. Tourists having interest in locally made copper utensils may visit the old indigenous-style market while coming downwards from the hill – the narrow road has old houses in both sides – many of these should have some historical importance. 

Jal-Mahal - before the light switched on

Jal-mahal, the 17th century palace on the man-made Man-Sagar lake\dam of 16th century is beautifully lit in the evening though entry is not permitted to common tourists. People feed fishes here, which swim close to the lakeside stairs for some food. If one wants to spend some quiet time in a not so crowded village fair-like atmosphere in the evening, this is an ideal location.

Photo courtesy: Tathagata Mukherjee
to be continued: