Radicalism - opinion that creates threat

Dictionary meaning of Radicalism is “the opinions and behavior of people who favor extreme changes especially in government  and Radical is the person “believing or ​expressing the ​belief that there should be ​great or ​extreme ​social or ​political ​change.”

Radicalism as a concept can be associated to not only extreme leftist thoughts, but also with extreme rightist Conservatism, Nazism or Fascism. The colour of radicalism changes from one geological boundary to another, depending on the uniqueness of political, social or religious standard maintained in the region. Significance of political radicalism in British and American history is quite distinct. Republican radicals in 1860s America preached for abolition of slavery whereas the Anti- Corn Law League of 1820s, defined as an example of British radicals, took an attempt to lead a moral and religious crusade bringing the end of aristocratic privileges.

Modern world history shows that the character of radicalism remains same whatever philosophy this supports. Theoretically radicals may use violent or non-violent means to bring changes they aim at; and there lies the danger with radicalism.

If our discussion remains within the realm of modern history, “Ism” signifies concept or idea that is believed to be able to rule people’s life. Its survival is very much dependent on preaching. One’s personal belief or even the belief of a very small group of people cannot bring change in social or political or economic environment anywhere, neither this can rule people’s life. Hence, believers in an “ism” try to bring as many people as possible into their belief. Also in case of radical concepts, growing the number of believers is the first stage of its development, similar to any monotheistic religion. In this stage, there is hardly any difference visible between a radical and non-radical idea.

In the second stage, the group of believers strive to bring a big change somewhere with an objective to rule all the people’s life around. Non-radical ideas and their believers tend to bring the targeted change naturally, aligning with prevalent system. Therefore, these changes do not create any turmoil in social, economic or political life. “Green revolution” concept implemented in Indian agriculture sector in 1960s started with an objective of bringing big change in agricultural system. This brought a big change in Indian agricultural community’s life and economy as well. But that did not create uproar of objection.  Difference in case of radical idea is, when the group of believers finds that change\conversion is not possible through non-violent way, they do not mind applying the violent means. Hence, a fascist believes in establishing own supremacy through radicals movements – like Mussolini did. A Nazi radical may believe in elimination of Jews and the Marxist radical in the elimination of inequality by killing unwanted people they call bourgeois.

Post Second World War and post independence India has seen radical movements. Take the example of the one during the process of independence when the radical thoughts of a section of erudite politicians made them understand that dividing the country on the basis of religion would bring cordial changes in the life of independent India. 14 millions of people were displaced. In other words, millions of people had to migrate to unknown future just to have the freedom to follow own religion. That remained largest mass migration in history till date. Properties looted, women and children tortured beyond imagination and people staying in areas marked for exchange had fallen victims of genocide – the number of people killed was no less than 200000. The wound in the affected families never healed.

Naxalite movement in West Bengal in late 1960s started with another radical concept. An uprising of landless labourers was set as a symbol of freedom from oppression by a group of, again lettered leaders, which was determined to eliminate oppression from societies by using Maoist political ideology. Some leaders dictated group members, mostly young students brought into the group by ideological preaching, to annihilate all “class enemies” (mainly businessmen, teachers, landlords, police officers and political leaders) to reach the dream society of “all-equals”. An all out war against the state lead to killing spree – fuelled by radical theoreticians and fanned by Govt. Even pain inflicted from this movement in the minds of affected people never relived.

Let’s not make the list lengthy by citing examples India has seen in last 70 years. What we learnt from our recent history is that, whenever some radical idea was applied to bring (even positive) changes, it produced anarchy. And that is where we see the threat of radicalism.

True there are countries in the world where possession of gun symbolizes power. There are countries where violent revolts are considered to be only option to form desirable social environment. There are western theories which consider unrest a supporting phenomenon behind intellectual development of people.

But common Indian parents do not send children to educational institutes to practice public kissing – things those can be practiced inside home, but to learn how to make a living. Common Indians don’t want their children to become leaders preaching for revolt against state, but to take the role of responsible human being saving their families and societies from disaster.  Spreading radical thoughts shatter the dream of common Indians to have their peaceful meal with all family members around – sometimes three generations present together. Education is supposed to bring positive changes here – slowly and steadily, so that every generation starting from an octogenarian to a newborn finds own place in it. Indians do not want to build their monument of success over the dead. Killing neighbours over their food habit is not considered an option for social cleansing by common Indian. Another thought of splitting the country into pieces (even if that enchants the radical idea of ensuring freedom) brings back the memory of 1947 genocide, or the Kashmiri Pandits helplessly living on New-Delhi streets. That is reason Indian commoners oppose radical thought process – they do not feel safe in turbulence like some of our erudite politicians do.  

A short trip to Rajasthan - 5

We realized only during our city tour, that the tour operators are not the best option to help visiting Jaisalmer! The RTDC hotel administration works in collaboration with private tour operators who arrange package tour as per their convenience – may not be convenient for the tourist, especially if one likes to take own time to visit preferred places.

Golden fort captured on mobile

Our funniest experience was with Golden fort, ancient home of the Bhatti Rajput dynasty from 12th century AD, later the famous Sonar Kella of Satyajit Ray. By the time we reached at the foothills, the tour operator was in a hurry to take us back to hotel. Moreover, the ambiance of the fort gate is very modern – I had a doubt how I could trace the 24000 women who were believed to have performed Jauhar (practice of self sacrifice, which saved ancient Hindu women from the humiliation in the hands of invaders) in 1290s as defeat became obvious in the hands of the invader Allauddin Khilji. This fort had seen at least three mass jauhars like this – proving the Rajput’s passion for dignity. Jaisalmer was indeed the last Rajput state which came under British rule, by 1818 as British East India Company started swallowing pieces of their Indian pies aggressively. But the entrance, overcrowded with the kiosks, banners (some in Bengali) and over-enthusiast self–proclaimed guides is not welcoming at all. We walked a little, but no - gave up within 10 minutes – we lost the mood to explore in the meantime. Locals told there are luxury hotels inside fort. One may book accommodation in one of those hotels to have a different experience.

Mandir Palace

Palace courtyard

Utensils from Royal kitchen

Lock and keys of Royal Home!

 And old handmade tiles

King's residence

View inside bedroom

The Throne

There are several buildings famous for artwork and handicrafts collection in Jaisalmer, e.g. Badal palace, alternatively called Mandir palace, the 2nd home of Bhatti Kings after they left the fort. This home was built around two hundred years back with the simplicity suited to a desert Rajput dynasty. It’s large but cozy, traditional, exquisitely curved, but not gaudy – part of which is again converted into luxury hotel (not too costly one). The Ladies Zone and the Kings area with a display of items for daily use and artifacts open for visitors show the distinct character of its owners. Probably this distinct identity was the reason behind many battles between Bhattis of Jaisalmer and Rathors of Jodhpur and Bikaner. 

Tajia tower

Ancient myth says that the establishment of this dynasty as a dominant force is resulted from the friendship between Brahmins – the scholarly class and Rajput – the warriors. Later, as Jaisalmer was developed as a large trading point between India and Pakistan, the Islamic art form was also adopted to create marvels of Jaisalmer architecture. Tajia tower in Badal palace is a magnificent example.

One of the horses in the king’s stable seemed very friendly. Not only he walked to us but also started trying to communicate - probably being attracted by my brother’s heavy jacket and my leather bags. Unfortunate that all horses have caretakers to scold them if they are interested in unknown people!

Gadisar lake is another architectural marvel worth visiting. The man-made lake was excavated as a water reservoir for the city of Jaisalmer by the king Maharwal Gadsi Singh around 1400 AD. Migratory birds are one attraction of this lake in this season. Obviously they prefer the less crowded part of the lakeside – opposite side of Tilon ki Pol. We decided not to disturb them here and kept ourselves busy with the gate. The gate was constructed by a courtesan Tilon. Of course making of such a large sandstone structure by a courtesan did hart the social pride as well as the king’s then. So a Satyanarayan (another form of Krishna) temple was also built along and the gate was dedicated to that God – doing away with all debates.

View of the lake taken using mobile

Tilon ki Pol

A view of ghat and temple

Patwon ki Haveli is a complex of five houses made by an 18th century business tycoon, who even lend money to the royals, for his five sons. Details: http://patwahaveli.com/history.asp Each house can be considered separate art galleries, full of artifacts showing the lifestyle of the old business community here.

We have heard of Nathmal ki Haveli too as a mansion worth visiting; but the operator-controlled time of city visit was over for that day as well and then the tour operator wanted to take us to the trip towards Indo-Pakistan border – we were not interested and decided to take rest instead.

People attracted to archaeology and ancient art may find Jaisalmer museums interesting too. A List of Rajasthan museums is available here: http://museumsrajasthan.gov.in/museums.htm

Things went fine till the reservation chart of the train Jaisalmer-Jaipur was prepared. My brother arranged everything beforehand taking extra care while he was carrying 2 old ladies along. We were on waiting list 1 2 3 for this train, confident that we would get the tickets confirmed on time. Such a wrong idea! After chart preparation, only 1 was confirmed; the name was my brother's! So we needed to cancel all, but how to reach Jaipur next day then? As hotel staffs referred a bus operator, my bro went there to book a ticket but came back with a visibly shocked face – knowing that a Jaipur bound bus ticket costs as low as Rs 450 for an overnight journey. We took an auto rickshaw towards bus station. As it happens in India, we started chatting with the rickshaw driver. Knowing our travel plan, he commented “who referred you the ‘Bangar’ (broken) bus?” Then we came to know that there were options for other kinds of buses too – Volvo and all. But no – we were not in the mood of changing tickets – anticipating this bus could be our option of catching another glimpse of rural Rajasthan. We were right! Ours was a bus used by local commuters, without air-conditioning, cold air coming through its cracked body. Wonderful was to find that even that bus was being managed by an expert driver and a nice conductor, probably little concerned about the safety of this group of three city-bred differently dressed visitors. We were given best possible seats and the conductor kept on guarding us. It stopped at a roadside dhaba at midnight for dinner. My brother went to discover the taste of rural Rajasthan and came back with a pleased face. Dhaba food, according to him is in general healthy and tasty in India. Their food is made of fresh ingredients and served hot. Me and mom were shown an open space behind the Dhaba as we were looking for an washroom! IMAZINE! Hmmm – we have to take things easy when we are travelling rural Indian style!

The bus ride was rewarding as imagined. Pokran in Sonar Kella, the Satyajit Ray detective story of 1970's was a deserted place. We discovered that to be a grown up township now. I found, that ladies in rural Rajasthan wear skirts more beautiful than those we get at stores and, that people are very tall and thin in this part of Rajasthan. We also got a chance of trying a mix of hot toasted chickpea, peanut and some unknown nuts – some local mouth watering delicacy.

As we got down from bus at 4 AM, my legs were almost frozen; probably bro’s too; both smart siblings boarded a country bus in Rajasthan winter without wearing warm leggings!

Fortunately our Jaipur cab driver picked us up without much delay. A nice warm room is something you need after such an adventure. But morning truly showed the day – my decision of city visit that day went terribly wrong. We should have visited city palace, jantar mantar etc, before visiting the forts. These are favored destinations for foreign tourists which give an idea of Indian royal grandeur during colonialist period. After forts, palaces seem too ordinary. There is no Nahar Singh as well.

Inside Jaipur palace

I think Mysore palace could be a better attraction for people who love to see lot of gold and silver – even the Hookah collection of the Ramnagar king (Banaras) could stand as good competitor against Jaipur city palace hookahs.  Indian Museum or Victoria Memorial or Marble palace in Kolkata has excellent collection of artifacts. To me, Rajasthan is alive for its stories integrated with its monuments and palaces. But there are more of history than stories in last 200 year’s India…

The old Jaipur (mobile)

Old Jaipur city is interesting for its old pink houses made in rows. The main road is wide but encroached from all sides keeping only a narrow passage open for all kinds of vehicles! It made me remember the dingy Burrabazar area in Kolkata – the wealthiest business neighborhood in the city. Interestingly, old Burrabazar residents are mostly from Rajasthan. Well, many of Rajasthan trading community started settling in eastern part of the country long before the British arrived.

Mobile cam is only option from inside car 

Jaipur nowadays is clearly divided into old city and new – we partly had a glimpse of the old during the fort visits. The old Jaipur city was developed during British era – in last 200-250 years as the royals started living in newly built palaces leaving their old forts. But as it happens with all old cities – one can feel the place only by walking miles on its roads…   

The divider between the old city and new (mobile)

Which cannot be maintained everywhere (mobile)

Regret for not having much time to explore more of the city while in the meantime, my old faithful headache announced its presence. We had to rush to hotel.

Not only buildings and stories, this part of Rajasthan amazed me with lot more. I found the Food and sweets and snacks simply delicious! As eastern side of India invented cottage cheese sweets, Rajasthan offers own creations using condensed milk, lentil flour, wheat flour, rice flour and ghee. Foodies should never miss different varieties of Laddus, Ghewar and Pheni and Kachouris as well as their thalis. Secondly, these cities of Rajasthan are good shopping destination as well, especially for those having a taste for handloom and handicrafts, silver and copper and stoneware. But if one does not have local contacts, it’s better to trust Govt. emporiums than any random store. I regretted not having a job when I realized I would never get gemstones and semi precious stones at that price anywhere else. Shame to my poverty! 

Next morning, when the city of Jaipur was getting smaller and smaller below, I remembered some families from Delhi, Kanpur and Allahabad I met in the Jaisalmer hotel - how we spent a nice evening chatting in the lounge. The government officials from other states were amazed at the grand success of Rajasthan Govt. in maintaining the city clean and supplying enough of water. The civil engineer from Delhi, who was listening silently in the beginning, suddenly commented: “But there is no rain since last three years. True, water is made available for tourists who might find desert life romantic. But fact is, one can work full time only 6 months a year here whereas moving out of home is not possible in summer. Moreover, water is costly when there is no rain. So it’s not all rosy pictures for the locals. I think, all the places are good when you see them as a tourist – but to stay, only that place is good which gives you a job.” – making the rest of us silent!

I don’t know whether he was right or wrong – but I knew there were lot more of Rajasthan remained hidden from us – tourists who have to visit places within a span of few days.

Photo courtesy: Tathagata Mukherjee

A short trip to Rajasthan - 4

We started for Jaisalmer by train at midnight; reached again facing a delay of two hours due to fog. At 7 am in the morning, we found a cold dark night outside the station. Anyway, we escaped any kind of trouble as the cab sent from hotel was waiting.

Cottage in Jaisalmer hotel

Tourist lodges\hotels under Government tourism departments in India have an ambiance we call middle-class environment. In the lobby, you may find tourists who work with different departments under different state- or central governments, chatting with each other. Rooms look like Govt. quarters, food is healthy\less spicy. You may also find a cottage industries showroom in the premises. These do not include gym, swimming pool, sauna or parlor, but provide homely comfort for Govt. employees families. I do not know how a similar kind of environment is maintained in all Govt. lodges everywhere in the country – as I have seen – be in West Bengal or Orissa, Karnataka or Tamilnadu, Maharastra or Rajasthan. 

Towards desert

First desert visit has to be exiting, so was ours. Jaisalmer city is in the desert, but one needs to drive almost half an hour to find a deserted desert. Well, roads are good even in those areas. There was more surprise for me on the way – windmills! I haven’t seen those from so close distance before. 

Ruins of Kuldhara

Kuldhara is a famous haunted village in the desert being maintained by Archaeological Survey of India. There is a debate whether a nasty Rajput local leader really threatened a group of Paliwal Brahmins so harsh that they preferred leaving their Kuldhara home and losing in the desert rather than gifting one of the Brahmin daughters to the Rajput. But stories do tell about people of a place and time – this place must be a witness of some incident. Some friends told Paliwals were into gold trading, so it is very possible that a local ruler of some unknown era wanted to acquire their gold, not really their daughters and he made Paliwals leave the place to fulfill his objective. Who knows the truth?

One old home renovated in Kuldhara

There was a temple once

Desert through mobile cam

Camel ride was fun for me and my brother. The camel was growling as we stepped towards it. Obviously this made me little scared (remember Lalmohan Ganguly?). What a wonder, it stopped crying as me and bro sat on it. What a personality trait - it seemed happy not only to carry heavy stuffs clinging on its back but also wanted to run with those! Its owner told, camel is energetic animal, especially when young. They don’t want to sit idle and express dissatisfaction till there is no chance to move. Does every camel have same character or this is also a generalization?

The big fat heroin and brother

Keeping balance may seem little troublesome in the beginning but you will enjoy the ride. I would be happier only if “tourists” did not take the role of garbage producing community here – how come people scatter all kinds of plastic bags, wrappers and bottles around themselves? Also beware of the proposal of camel-owners to show the Indo-Pakistan border, which is, in fact 130 km away from this part of Jaisalmer. Well – no harm in taking a longer camel ride if you enjoy.

In the desert

Dusk in the desert

The fire

Musical programs presented by folk artists arranged in the evening are another attraction in the deserts. People may also live in the tents here or go back to hotel after attending the program. You are lucky if you are attending a program of one of your favorite singers. There is a difference between listening to a Manganiyar artist in a city auditorium and out in the open. Seats for audience are arranged like a gallery in the open  – the program starts after sunset in the evening - in January the temperature goes low as 4/5 oC – they light a fire in the middle. Probably this is called heavenly experience!

Practicing before performance

Jalal Khan and troup

Shanta Devi and troup

Our little fotomodel

To be continued:

A short trip to Rajasthan - 3

I was excited to find something new – a different kind of landscape, as the intercity express in the morning was running towards Jodhpur. The ground outside the window looked so pale white, with one or two acacia trees and water-bodies here and there, that it would catch attention of anyone. Was there some limestone mine nearby? – I called my brother who was trying to fill the quota of his sleeping hours. 

No, there is no limestone in this area, but there is natural salt! This is called Sambhar lake, a salty marshland – actually a land-locked river basin spreading over 200 square kilometers that has been developed as edible salt producer region. And then I noticed salt manufacturing factories; tried to imagine how that dirty mud gets converted into the most wanted clean white ingredient for our everyday meal! Could Sukracharya, the teacher of the demons, who stayed in this region (Mahabharatam story) imagine that some salt making units would come up here someday? Sukracharya’s daughter Devyani, according to Bengali Mahabharata, was married to king Yayati here. Sukracharya was also the teacher of Brihaspati’s son, Kach. This Brihaspati was the teacher of the Devata clan. No wonder why the leaders of opponent political parties are in good terms! Co-passengers in the train told there is a Devyani temple as well – when was the temple built? 

Sambhar lake from train

To a Kolkata resident, Jodhpur appears to be a descent small town where the past is very much alive in its present. As Jaipur wanted to become pink, Jodhpur also adopted the colour blue. Rooftop decoration of the “Blue city” is something I found distinctive – didn’t have an idea that the rooftops of the houses can be covered with marble and decorated with paintings. Probably this keeps the house cool at the same time with beautifying.

Blue city from Mehrangarh

Jodhpur rooftops

 Umaid Bhawan in Jodhpur, the current royal palace, parts of which is converted into luxury hotel, displays some of this Rathod royal family possessions - I found the collection of vintage cars most interesting – fell in love with the 1927 Rolls Royce and 1906 Overland (with wooden wheels). All these cars except one are in running condition. The guard told that the present descendant of the royal family brought Audis and Jaguars to match the lifestyle of these days but he loves the oldies in this garage. I agree with the king!  

A fan regulator in Umaid Bhawan

An unsuccessful attempt to look through the glass

 Everyone has seen Umaid Bhawan, at least its pics. So not adding snaps of that. But very few has seen not this housing project nearby, I am sure!

Umaid Bhawan at night – taken from hotel! 

Mehrangarh fort, the ancient castle of this royal family is an elegant example of rock cut architecture of medieval India. Same like previous forts, they made a large parking area outside fort. Uniqueness here is in the height and the plan of the fort. This is a high-rise fort – the topmost floor is 400 meters above ground. Nothing to worry – current fort management made a convenient plan for tourists. One can take elevator directly to the topmost floor and start visiting all the floors from there. Another remarkable thing is – audio guide (optional provision made by fort authority) is available in several European languages as well as in Hindi. The history is nicely described in their website; I don’t want to repeat it http://www.mehrangarh.org/

Entrance 

Trying to capture the height

One of the cannons on the top floor 

Maintained by Indian army, the castle is converted into a museum full of old artworks and partially to a luxury garden restaurant. The display items include weapons, cloths and handloom products, artifacts used by royal family, a magnificent Jhula (cradle) collection etc. 

The Paintings displayed are copies of old ones while ensuring security of accessible real painting is almost impossible; thanks to the well-networked and well-organised painting thieves. 

Inside there are several halls, rooms and offices beautifully decorated by murals and wall paintings. Eye catching stone-works are found everywhere inside and outside the fort making it an attractive film-shoot destination. I guess Bollywood film lovers know this fort very well. 

  

Royal court 

Royal court 

Royal bedroom 

This was probably a temple 

View from an inner courtyard

View from one of the many courtyards

 We kept on moving from one area to another till a melodious voice of some folk singer diverted us. We met a family outside. Resident of a village nearby, this musical family walks into the fort everyday, sits beside the road, which was once used by men on horse and gives the tourists a feel of rural Rajasthan music. That creates the ambiance of the fort, I must say.

The musical family

Due to the ongoing restoration work in the ladies zone with an intention to convert that into a tourist lodge, that part was closed. Well, this castle didn’t seem scary – future tourists will have a good time here for sure. Well, if history repeats here as well, and if they allow a woman Pundit then, I am ready to study Sanskrit again in one of my next births – such a nice office they made for the Pundit! There was a time in Indian history when Sanskrit was considered a language worth learning - the age old library near the pundit’s office having large number of handwritten manuscripts proves that.

The Pundit's office

A window

Ladies zone

 The fort visit was magnifique! Even the coffee in the small coffee shop inside the fort was great. Only the lady on the wall outside made me nervous as we were coming down. She was standing on the edge of the wall, attentively looking at the horizon. My concern was, if she slipped, it could be the fall from 400 ft! My brother comforted me – dogs don’t commit suicide even if they think and probably also imagine! Probably she is carrying out her eternal duty of guarding the fort…

Lady on the wall

That is not a fort!

 The fort closes its main door at five – it was time to move out – time to go back to hotel and pack again. The train to Jaisalmer starts at midnight. But before leaving, I wanted to check the utility of my mobile phone! 

To be continued:

Photography courtesy: Tathagata Mukherjee