I was excited to find
something new – a different kind of landscape, as the intercity express in the
morning was running towards Jodhpur. The ground outside the window looked so
pale white, with one or two acacia trees and water-bodies here and there, that
it would catch attention of anyone. Was there some limestone mine nearby? – I
called my brother who was trying to fill the quota of his sleeping hours.
No, there is no limestone in
this area, but there is natural salt! This is called Sambhar lake, a salty
marshland – actually a land-locked river basin spreading over 200 square
kilometers that has been developed as edible salt producer region. And then I noticed
salt manufacturing factories; tried to imagine how that dirty mud gets
converted into the most wanted clean white ingredient for our everyday meal!
Could Sukracharya, the teacher of the demons, who stayed in this region
(Mahabharatam story) imagine that some salt making units would come up here someday? Sukracharya’s daughter Devyani, according to Bengali Mahabharata,
was married to king Yayati here. Sukracharya was also the teacher of
Brihaspati’s son, Kach. This Brihaspati was the teacher of the Devata
clan. No wonder why the leaders of opponent political parties are in good
terms! Co-passengers in the train told there is a Devyani temple as well – when
was the temple built?
Sambhar lake from train
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To a Kolkata resident,
Jodhpur appears to be a descent small town where the past is very much alive in
its present. As Jaipur wanted to become pink, Jodhpur also adopted the colour
blue. Rooftop decoration of the “Blue city” is something I found distinctive –
didn’t have an idea that the rooftops of the houses can be covered with marble
and decorated with paintings. Probably this keeps the house cool at the same
time with beautifying.
Umaid Bhawan in Jodhpur, the
current royal palace, parts of which is converted into luxury hotel, displays
some of this Rathod royal family possessions - I found the collection of
vintage cars most interesting – fell in love with the 1927 Rolls Royce and 1906
Overland (with wooden wheels). All these cars except one are in running
condition. The guard told that the present descendant of the royal family
brought Audis and Jaguars to match the lifestyle of these days but he loves the
oldies in this garage. I agree with the king!
Everyone has seen Umaid
Bhawan, at least its pics. So not adding snaps of that. But very few has seen
not this housing project nearby, I am sure!
Umaid Bhawan at night –
taken from hotel!
Mehrangarh fort, the ancient castle of this royal
family is an elegant example of rock cut architecture of medieval India. Same
like previous forts, they made a large parking area outside fort. Uniqueness
here is in the height and the plan of the fort. This is a high-rise fort – the
topmost floor is 400 meters above ground. Nothing to worry – current fort
management made a convenient plan for tourists. One can take elevator directly to
the topmost floor and start visiting all the floors from there. Another
remarkable thing is – audio guide (optional provision made by fort authority)
is available in several European languages as well as in Hindi. The history is
nicely described in their website; I don’t want to repeat it http://www.mehrangarh.org/
Entrance
One of the cannons on the
top floor
Maintained by Indian army,
the castle is converted into a museum full of old artworks and partially to a
luxury garden restaurant. The display items include weapons, cloths and
handloom products, artifacts used by royal family, a magnificent Jhula (cradle)
collection etc.
The Paintings displayed are copies of old ones while ensuring security of accessible real painting is almost impossible; thanks to the well-networked and well-organised painting thieves.
Inside there are several
halls, rooms and offices beautifully decorated by murals and wall paintings.
Eye catching stone-works are found everywhere inside and outside the fort making
it an attractive film-shoot destination. I guess Bollywood film lovers know
this fort very well.
Royal court
Royal court
Royal bedroom
This was probably a temple
View from an inner courtyard
View from one of the many courtyards
We kept on moving from one
area to another till a melodious voice of some folk singer diverted us. We met
a family outside. Resident of a village nearby, this musical family walks into
the fort everyday, sits beside the road, which was once used by men on horse and gives the tourists a feel of rural Rajasthan music. That creates the
ambiance of the fort, I must say.
The musical family
Due to the ongoing
restoration work in the ladies zone with an intention to convert that into a
tourist lodge, that part was closed. Well, this castle didn’t seem scary –
future tourists will have a good time here for sure. Well, if history repeats
here as well, and if they allow a woman Pundit then, I am ready to study
Sanskrit again in one of my next births – such a nice office they made for the
Pundit! There was a time in Indian history when Sanskrit was considered a
language worth learning - the age old library near the pundit’s office having
large number of handwritten manuscripts proves that.
The
Pundit's office
A
window
Ladies zone
The fort visit was
magnifique! Even the coffee in the small coffee shop inside the fort was great.
Only the lady on the wall outside made me nervous as we were coming down. She
was standing on the edge of the wall, attentively looking at the horizon. My concern
was, if she slipped, it could be the fall from 400 ft! My brother comforted me
– dogs don’t commit suicide even if they think and probably also imagine! Probably
she is carrying out her eternal duty of guarding the fort…
Lady
on the wall
That is not a fort!
The fort closes its main
door at five – it was time to move out – time to go back to hotel and pack
again. The train to Jaisalmer starts at midnight. But before leaving,
To be continued:
Photography courtesy: Tathagata Mukherjee
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