A short trip to Rajasthan - 2

We planned to visit forts in and around Jaipur – our cab-driver was wondering why we were forcing him to take us to those ‘khandahars’(ruins) instead of visiting Chowki Dhani and all popular tourist destinations; but had to give up as he already agreed to accompany this stubborn trio.

All three forts located in Jaipur - Nahargarh, Jaigarh and Amer, the old accommodations of kings of this region – are curved on hilltops to be fitted as strategic locations; worth visiting for their architectural plan. Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) is responsible for preserving the Indian history here. Also Indian army people are visible in the relatively deserted hilltops of Nahargarh and Jaigarh. Integral parts of these forts are age old legends spread verbally through hundreds of years. As it happens with most of our historical locations, very little are documented, but people’s belief makes all the stories alive in this land of many warrior clans –traditionally called Rajput.

On the way to Nahargarh

Take Nahargarh's as an example. Popular belief says that the fort’s name was Sudarshangarh once upon a time. Sawai Rajput clan attacked the fort when it was under the rule of Nahar Singh Bhomia, a Rathod Rajput. Nahar Singh and family, lost in the battle, believed to have committed suicide, but the spirit of the king kept on haunting the place. He was even foiling the redesigned reconstruction of the fort. Finally, Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, who was owner of the fort by 1730s, made a temple in the premises and named it after Nahar Singh, to pacify the spirit and succeeded.

Renovated several times between 19th and 20 century, the fort had seen the most recent major reconstruction work planned by the Jaipur city architect Vidyadhar Bhattacharya, during Sawai Madho Singh’s regime between 1883-1892. 

Jaipur city through the archer's whole on the fort wall

Inside Nahargarh

An awesome view of Jaipur city is found from Nahargarh. The fort has a large entrance – as usual – and cordoned by high walls from all sides. Jaipur city lies far below if you look through the holes from the wall right hand side – once made for archers-protectors of the fort. The old water reservoir in the middle of the fort is interesting, also the palace and the small temple in the left hand side. The king’s part is transformed into restaurant but the 9 identical mahals (dwellings) of which 7 three-room apartments were for the queens. The entire structure is still attractive with all their stone filigree work, minakari (colored stone painting), frescos, hallways, corridors and rectangular courtyards. I am not sure when the European style lavatories and kitchen fireplaces were added – Europeans and even the then British resident’s family were sent here by the then king for their protection during Sepoy mutiny in 1857. 

Water reservoir

The royal home

Courtyard

Queen's bedroom

Spirit of Nahar Singh?

Corridor

Towards king's chamber

Interesting abode for Shiva at the entrance of the fort 

 

The temple door

At the end, I selected a 4 bhk house inside this fort, outside the palace, probably allotted to some high official under the kings, for my accommodation – in my next birth – if history repeats! Was there any female officer in the king’s office? – No way!

Home I wanted to live in!

Nahargarh and Jaigarh are 3 km away from each other but cordoned by the same high wall.

Jaigarh does not have frescoes and intricate artwork like the other fort while it was built to protect the city, not as residential structure – but the red stone construction is amazing. Apart from Aram-Mandir (resting place), armory, garden and museum, it has a watchtower as high as 15-storied house with staircase and no lift! – obviously closed for general tourists. The locally made huge cannon named Jaivana and a large underground water tank create awe of course! Jaivana, the largest cannon of the world was manufactured by local foundries in 1720 during the ruler Sawai Jai Singh's regime. This 50-ton cannon was never used in an war but the test fire was believed to have done using 100 kgs of gunpowder and resulted creation of a lake in the village Chasku 35 kilometers away. It is easily understandable why Jaipur iron foundries were the source of Mogul power till Aurangzeb’s regime.

Back of the cannon

 Watchtower

The 3 adjacent water tanks were constructed to store water for the fort’s usage. According to local belief, looting was secondary profession (fighting wars being the primary) of kings once and Sawai Man Singh made himself famous as a looter in a large landscape stretched till Kabul. They say that the looted wealth used to be converted into gold coins and hidden inside the tanks – all extracted by Govt after Indian independence. No Govt record carries any evidence of these stories, apart from one unsuccessful treasure hunt in the area during Indira Gandhi’s regime. Even if there were hidden treasure, those might have been used by Sawai Jai Singh to build the grand city of Jaipur.

Amer or Amber fort, built in second half of 16th century by Raja Man Singh, is as majestic as the Mughal emperors, implanting both awe and attraction in a tourists mind. You enter through a huge gate – larger than the previous forts, and then find yourself in large ground surrounded by a high stone-wall, different sections of the palace, a huge temple, horse stables and clerk’s offices. They say that the 5000 infantry used to parade in this large courtyard. Photography is prohibited only in the silver coated Sita Devi (mother goddess) temple that lies in one corner of this courtyard. God is not comfortable with camera! 

Main entrance of Amber

First courtyard

Enough space for a large infantry parade

Beside the temple, a large intricately designed stairway leads to the palace’s second courtyard, again divided from the large one by a high stone wall. The king used to meet common people in a construction called Diwan-i-Aam (Public hall). Built on double row of columns, this structure is open in all four sides.

 Second courtyard with Diwan-i-Aam on the left

Ganesha pole is the gate to the third courtyard, which was private area of the royals.

Royals met their officers in this place – a construction called Diwan-i-khas, alternatively called Sheesh Mahal, covered with intricate glass-work along with a private garden is the main attraction here. Suddenly at this moment, the grandeur started making me tired. Expression of luxury and splendor in the art and architecture was same probably everywhere during middle-age baroque. I find it little too much – not the fault of the kings of course – they followed the fashion of their time! 

Ganesha pole

Diwan-i-khaas

It’s called Sheesh Mahal

Exquisite stone filigree

But how the garden did look like that time?

Moving forward from this part of construction, if you are interested to march into the inner courtyard of the Indian Royals, made for their women - fourth one here, you have to be alert that you follow another group of tourists. Many narrow and identical corridors, dark staircases and different elevations make it difficult to come out of the ladies zone without help. But you will miss a lot if you don’t enter. Its ladies zone after all!

One corridor leading towards the ladies zone

You are inside Ladies zone - Genana court visible in the middle

And you have to cross these high walls if you want to run away

While sentries are watching from these towers

I remember we found a Turkish bath somewhere before entering this area, but cannot remember how we entered there. During Maan Singh’s era, they set up as many as 27 washrooms in the palace but probably without ventilation – the bad odor stopped us from exploring further… 

A view of the kitchen

Women of high rank were allotted separate apartments for sure, but none had a door. I am not an expert, so do not know, when we first introduced the concept of door in Indian architecture. But I have seen wooden doors with intricate artwork in older Hindu temples. Even the humble Nahargarh fort owners had better respect for privacy it seems. Interestingly, the Mogul Lieutenant’s ladies had own courtyard, used to be allotted property in the form of territory, used to manage those themselves and even used to carry out judicial practices, if their socio-political strata permitted it. Anyway, the structure shows clearly that no women could escape this area – the topmost floors surrounding this area were allotted to palace guards and servants. We spotted a kitchen also in the backyard decorated with some yokes and vessels as large as bathtubs – do not know whether this was used for the kings and queens or the servants of the palace.
But the Jenana Deori of this palace created such a terrorizing ambiance that all of us took a deep breath of relief together, as  soon as we came out of the area (in fact the high walls made me remember the traumatizing experience of working with a software project for a few months once - about fifty to sixty people were supposed to work 10 hours a day sitting in a closed hall without window but with 12 CCTV cameras placed around them). Good that the time has changed - no king's man tried to stop us as we came out of  the fort.  

There is a Rajasthan Textile development corp establishment near Amber fort - watching carpet making process and block printing is another experience. Tourists having interest in locally made copper utensils may visit the old indigenous-style market while coming downwards from the hill – the narrow road has old houses in both sides – many of these should have some historical importance. 

Jal-Mahal - before the light switched on

Jal-mahal, the 17th century palace on the man-made Man-Sagar lake\dam of 16th century is beautifully lit in the evening though entry is not permitted to common tourists. People feed fishes here, which swim close to the lakeside stairs for some food. If one wants to spend some quiet time in a not so crowded village fair-like atmosphere in the evening, this is an ideal location.

Photo courtesy: Tathagata Mukherjee
to be continued:

A short trip to Rajasthan - 1

Jaipur airport made me remember the old Bangalore airport – clean and small one located near the city creates a cozy feeling. My family planned a trip to Rajasthan to recover me from the heartbreak that was an unavoidable effect of my leaving Bangalore. The sight of Jaipur airport aggravated the pain instead of reducing it seemed! Who knew that I missed the 20 minutes auto rickshaw drive from my Koramangala residence to airport so much?

Our flight was delayed due to fog. The way climate changes in winter is interesting in northern part of the country - we had to make changes in our plan! Removing plan of sightseeing on the day of arrival was hitch on the first day of the tour! But at the same time, we found an airport cabbie would be available for sightseeing trips. Every unfavourable situation brings something favourable along!

As it happens with our family trips, almost everything was pre-arranged, but not with me! I realized that I forgot stuffs like woolen cap and body sprays and batteries for my small camera. Why I am always under- prepared during my trips? I was angry on myself – for having no option but to step into the shopping mall opposite to the RTDC hotel in the evening. And that brought me chance to I realized, Jaipur traffic arrangement has room for improvement. Crossing the roads in this part of the city is difficult due to the absence of any proper traffic signaling system or traffic police. There are Zebra crosses on the road, but the moving traffic never stops; so the only option is to calculate their speed and run though them. I thanked God for saving me while crossing the road!

Discovery number two –a shopping mall inside a city may look deserted on Saturday evening! Three fourth of the mall’s stores were vacant or closed – only couple of cloths and stationary and confectionery shops doing business and that too in mandi style – I remembered one of my Gujarati friend’s words, “Malls in Badodara are flop show– none wants to shop in a clean (read gaudy) mall leaving the comfort of bargaining with the roadside hawkers.” Is the story same in Rajasthan too?

Next day was for Puskar and Ajmer - both in Ajmer disctrict – a 136 km drive from Jaipur – started with famous Jaipur onion kachouri and other snacks in a roadside foodstall. Healthy hotel breakfast does not stand in competition with delicious Indian street-food, provided your stomach is not built in developed West.

It’s a nice long-drive experience through a well-constructed four lane expressway from New Delhi to Mumbai. This National Highway 8 connects many important business cities in this part of the country – Gurgaon, Jaipur, Ajmer, Udaipur, Surat, Ahmadabad, Vadodara etc. as well as the large rural areas, small industrial towns and tourist destinations – sign of a good business plan. It crosses the marble city Kishangarh, providing a glimpse of the marble factories from the over-bridge that helps in avoiding the city traffic on the way.

A university gate at Ajmer

Towards Puskar 

But at the end of the route, if it ends in Ajmer or Puskar, the tourist needs to learn, how to deny the crowd of devoted guides tapping the car from all sides. We found for the first time, how my brother’s northy look and Western-region Hindi accent help in Rajasthan!

Finally our cabbie managed to take us to a comparatively less-crowded bathing ghat (Choudi-paidi) so that my brother could peacefully practice photography. After the session, we moved to the temple, one of the two dedicated to Lord Brahma in the country. Are we, the residents of Brahmanda, not much interested about the God of creation? Among the Hindu male-god trio, Shiva and Vishnu seems to be more popular when it comes to temple making. Does Brahma have any dedicated group of devotees like Saivaits or Vaishnavaits? Why not? Mythologists might have already provided a sensible answer in their articles, but I guess the old bearded look of this god may be a reason behind. Sounds too innovative an idea?

Puskar lake from Choudi-paidi ghat

Apart from dairy, agricultural is another source of livlihood for people in Puskar area. Large scale cultivation of roses may be the reason why they do worship Lord Brahma with roses; in eastern part of the country, “foreign” flowers like rose or chrysanthemum is not allowed for god’s worship.

Photography is not allowed inside the temple here. But more than the temple, I found the road to temple interesting - retaining the look and smell of small north Indian towns. I am not a big devotee of the gods in temple – they are visible only for few seconds and I never had a chance to talk to them. Our cab-driver is a better person than that bearded Brahma distributing very common prasadam of surgery items - he took us to a roadside restaurant (Dhaba) to taste Rajasthan thali. We didn’t know that a meal named “dal bati and churma” also includes roti, several types of veggies, curd, pickles, papad etc – so left the place with heavy heart, not being able to finish the plates.

Puskar is an area that includes developed and still developing villages. People are mostly into agriculture and farming. As a Hindu pilgrimage destination, this is associated with many mythical stories. If you find a good cab driver, he will tell you all the stories he knows. Other option is to open the books on Hindu mythology. The Hills are called Ghati, and there are many temples on different ghatis. There is another legendary temple dedicated to Savitri, the wife of Lord Brahma on another Ghati called Ratnagiri - few kilometers away from Puskar. But I would advise the tourist to stay one day in Puskar to be able to have a wider look at all temples – there are many. The place is overcrowded during the Puskar fair only.

Road to Ajmer

Ana Sagar Lake

 A monkey family 

Road to Ajmer

The moment we arrived close to Ajmer Sharif, a 15 km drive from Puskar, again by a beautiful road though the hills, we were surrounded by larger-sized guides wearing sherwanis and surma! Mom was scared as if a riot has just began and denied to get down from cab. My sunglass-clad, northy Hindi speaking brother took control again – we walked a little towards the Darga – it is a narrow lane full of small shops after a large gate – made me remember Char-minar ambiance in Hyderabad, with all chadar, imitation ornaments and utensil sellers on both sides of the lane. There are shudh sakahari Mittal and Jain bhojanalay (Vegetarian north Indian food courts) as well! In India, believers do not consider religion as a barrier when it comes to the question of worshipping a holy man. In fact, the concept of Sufism developed integrating beliefs of Hinduism and Islam. When commoners of all sects including vegetarians go for a pilgrimage to Hazrat Khwaja Moinuddin Chishty Dargah, they need own kind of food as well. This seemed to be another good photo-shoot destination – but we could not spend much time to visit the Darga in fear of losing  mom with the cab. Getting the cab with the cab-driver and mom back guarded by the pack of local guides costed Rs 100 \half an hour!

Ajmer

Photography copyright - Tathagata Mukherjee

To be continued:

Perfect Colony – as per Macaulay’s Minute

Curse of colonialism does not lie in how many natives are killed by the colonialists. Not even in how many natives are picked up and transported as slaves to some other geography. Curse of colonialism is that the natives forget themselves after a period of time under the foreign rule. They start believing that everything foreign is good, everything own is bad. They start imitating others, try to follow other’s moral concepts, strive to implement the business rules practiced somewhere else, attempt to adopt industrial policies grown up in different environment,  shape their spirituality as directed by the colonialist master,  struggle to become someone else.

So Indians want to become as “Civilized” as British, “Strong” like Germans, “Cultured” like French, “Aggressive” like Spanish, “Innovative” like Americans, “Persistent” like Japanese, “Determined” like Chinese; not anything like Indian. “Perfection” becomes keyword of life, not self-development.

After a colony is “perfectly” colonized, natives borrow the viewpoint of people from other geographies to analyze their own history and culture. Next step is - manipulating and polishing every aspect of own cultural existence to fit other’s taste. Native language has to be polished so that it suits the standard of other’s language; cloths and looks have to be designed such a way that other people feel it comfortable, food habits need to be developed such a way that others find it healthy, literary or artistic activities are considered successful only when it receives foreign appreciation, foreign university degrees are not only needed for industrial, technological, educational or social developments, but also to determine how great native freedom fighters were. Colonies learn “inclusiveness” in a new light; it is not the concept of inclusiveness developed through thousands of years, but the way “inclusiveness” is taught by the “Gods” – all born in some other Geography. Localization becomes a tool to fit native language into foreign ideas.  

Lord Macaulay knew this long before – at least as early as in 1835. (I would love to highlight some “important points” in the famous Macaulay’s Minutes for the convenience of readers -  http://www.columbia.edu/itc/mealac/pritchett/00generallinks/macaulay/txt_minute_education_1835.html ). 

Hence, British colonialists could ensure that after 200 years, even native Bengali popular newspaper would invite “educationists” from acclaimed foreign universities to announce how “inclusive” a patriot their own Subhash Bose was. Other Europeans, who tried to establish colonies here, probably lost the race because of lack of such a full-proof planning. The following lines of Macaulay’s minutes show us how far-reaching the colonialist vision was: “We must at present do our best to form a class who may be interpreters between us and the millions whom we govern,  --a class of persons Indian in blood and colour, but English in tastes, in opinions, in morals and in intellect. To that class we may leave it to refine the vernacular dialects of the country, to enrich those dialects with terms of science borrowed from the Western nomenclature, and to render them by degrees fit vehicles for conveying knowledge to the great mass of the population.”

There is a large controversy on how responsible Lord Macaulay was for the widespread popularity of Anglicism in India. He commented against the preaching of Christianity while Charles Grant, the East India Company official preached that the introduction of Western education and Christianity would be necessary to transform a morally corrupt society (Observations on the State of Society among the Asiatic Subjects of Great Britain, 1792) four decades prior to him. Secondly, it is obvious that Macaulay representing the ruling class might be only an equivalent to a strategic management person of a global enterprise of 21st century. He might have studied and influenced by Grant’s observations while writing his minutes. His vision was supported by Indian intellectuals (among them, Rammohun Roy, the social reformer of 18th century Bengal was a prominent name) of that period who found English education an opportunity to align India with the technologically advanced world. Natives in Kolkata and Madras showed enthusiastic interest in English education – establishment of Hindu college and English schools in Madras are good evidence for this. Thirdly, the introduction of English education came in a package with prohibition of widow burning (Satidaha), female infanticide, child sacrifice in Gangasagar and elimination of thugs, dacoits and pirates in different parts of the country, establishing the humanitarian nature of the colonialist rule. Especially in Bengal, common people were suffering from Siraj-ud-daulah’s ’s tyrannical rule and torture by Wargi (Maharastrian invaders) for a long time before; naturally they embraced British gun-users and their education as friendly saviors. Also true that Charles Trevelyan, appointed by the Governor-General Lord Bentinck to formalize a suitable education policy for the newly acquired colony, had prepared the ground fairly before Macaulay prepared his minutes. Cost cutting was another big headache of East India Company for which they needed to reduce the number of English expats here and replace them with natives. Once British started expanding colonies, there remained practically no option - nor for them, neither for their subjects – to stay away from the planned implementation of their ideas.

Hence, we can safely say that, when the foundation of Anglican education was already built on Indian soil, Macaulay’s Minutes appeared to be a “perfect tool” to justify the imperial colonialist standpoint. And 21^st century India shows how great a visionary he was…..